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Sorry for my poor english translation This sport can be risky due to physical exertion and possible injuries caused by not taking precautions such as always look before you make a wave or give a wave to someone who is closer to the surf. However, there are a large number of injuries in the surf (with the notable exception of Bethany Hamilton) and the use of "invention" prevents the tables whose owners have fallen hitting other surfers. It is worth noting that this sport requires qualities such as balance, skill, agility and coordination. --- There is evidence of the presence of surf more than 500 years in the islands of Polynesia. English explorer James Cook reached the Hawaiian Islands in 1778. On the other hand in northern Peru, local cultures left traces that show men going up waves. The Huacos are pre-Inca pottery and one of them clearly shows a man on a tree or something similar in the attitude of surfing a wave. This would indicate that all began in South America, but it was the Polynesians in their constant trips between islands which, centuries later, would take the habit of sliding waves to places like Hawaii. Upon contact, the indigenous cultures were suppressed and the surf boom came to losing. James Cook was later killed by the natives. In the twentieth century the surf was recovered, and the interest of tourists and U.S. military in Hawaii, and the fame of the Olympic Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, surfing began to become popular on the coasts of California and Australia, creating the seeds of a subculture in environments in which they practiced, extended into other countries. This occurred in the years 50 / 60. Then the tables were large items of solid wood and the surf was a simple practice. Later it was becoming more difficult thanks to the courage of pioneers like Oscar Rodriguez, patriarch of modern big wave surfing. There was also an evolution in the stunts and moves, while research into new designs and materials in tables that allow other expressions. Currently surfing competition is mainly based on: research design and materials engineers in aeronautics surfers looking for a hydrodynamic optimization of the tables. In many countries on different continents, the surf was known already in the 60's. Today surfing is practiced in most parts of the world, although most buoyant industries tables and accessories are based in Australia, Europe and South America. Among the most popular destinations for travelers practitioners are Australia and Southeast Asia. Surfing is a sport in Latin America also thriving in parts of Chile and Pichilemu (Punta de Lobos) and Iquique, also in Peru, beaches like Mancora or Chicama beaches are ideal for this sport. --- Within the surf "table", or surf itself, there are two basic categories depending on the size and type of table: shortboard, or short board surfing (from 1.50 to 2.10 meters) Categories are also defined as the type of waves There are two variants, the kneeboard is a short board that can surf the knees, with fins, and cork, foam boards that are softer than conventional glass fiber, only one meter and in which lying can surf with fins as well as in the kneeboard. (Help a lot to catch the waves) While kneeboard is increasingly rare, because of their danger corks minor bumps and keelage, ease of use and extreme maneuvers that allow a lot has been popularized. There are a number of basic movements in the surf, which are: Take Off: The first move made by surfers, is when you stop paddling lying on the table and passed to the upright position, ready to slip over the wave. It takes off on a wave, more for their power by the wind. LongBoard maneuvers or Board: "Hang Five": This is walk around the table until one foot is on the front of the table (called the nose). --- The difficulty of this sport lies in both the speed and the size and shape of the waves. The waves suitable for surfing navigated style are those that evolve and develop break the wall and the foam progressively to the right or left. If the waves break over a rock surface, and with little depth will be most suitable for bodyboard prcática. To identify suitable conditions for surfing, use the description of various elements or parts of the wave: Wall: the part of the wave that she stood up, lifted a water surface above the horizontal line at various angles or even vertical. That part of the wave on which the surfer browsing. Appointing various types of wave in response to your form: Orillera: breaks very close to shore and is dangerous in collisions with the background. They are classified according to size (in the surf majority): less than 1'50m / 2m high wall are considered small waves, "comfortable" that is common height To measure the wave is used internationally in sailing Douglas Scale. The size of the waves on surf is measured depending on the culture where we are: Behind, in classic style as in Hawaiian Islands; The behavior of the waves varies greatly depending on the background on that break: on the sand. Waves are usually less violent, since the forms of sandbanks or taro are usually not very pronounced, constantly shaped by the action of tides, currents and waves, and consequently less resistant to the blows of the sea and the waves . Sand banks are not completely stable and the waves of sand from some sites are not the same every year. The suitability of either fund depends on each site: By the nature of tides, currents and sea blows received And the wave of Lloret unique in the Canary Islands, Playa de las Canteras. Is a tube of 2 to 3 meters high speed rarely seen. |
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