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The mode (or modes), and more specifically fashion dress, means how to dress according to the taste of a time in a given region. It is a phenomenon involving the collective through the company, the look she returns, it imposes codes and individual tastes.

Fashion concerns not only clothes but also accessories, makeup, perfume and even body modifications. The factors determining the mode are sometimes aesthetic (including the great creators). However, fashion is also determined by other factors, for those who follow: a means to assert its social status, social group, its purchasing power and personality, or for designers who imitate a convenient way to earn money and success.

One of its characteristics is its constant change, thereby prompting to renew the garment before it is worn or inadequate.

The concept of fashion can not be viewed from a utilitarian perspective. Indeed, it exceeds the need for ample clothing. This phenomenon of fashion has long been the preserve of the aristocracy to the Court and upper classes mimicking the modes of the Court prior to popularize and become a mass phenomenon. Thus the term appears in 1482 and refers to changes in the details of clothing for the elite and "the new fashion" becomes in 1549 "to be fashionable." [1]

The sixteenth century marks the birth of the first "fashion magazines", including some illustrated newspapers. The gallery of fashion and costume is French and published in 1778. Also at this time that what was then called the "dolls of France." These figures dressed as the ladies take pleasure in presenting and exchanging them on the occasion of meetings to explore and discover fashion that does not yet have distribution channels on a large scale. This is because with the advent of the photo on the magazines in the nineteenth century is the rise of women's magazines

In the early nineteenth century, the first clothing stores at reduced prices emerge.

We can start talking about fashion history and analyze it from the nineteenth century with Charles Frederick Worth, the creator who first had the idea, around 1858, scroll through the models on real women (so called look-alikes ) in salons where clients had to choose.

Previously, one can speak of patterns brought to the Court and costumes, but this is history of costume and is measured in centuries when the mode is evaluated in decades. The man, however, since prehistoric times, loved adorn. And if the garment made its appearance in part to ensure the weather in cold climates, people in temperate or warm climates have always loved to adorn themselves in loincloths plants, feathers and charms of all sorts, and it did not come here to Because purely functional, narcissism and seduction had their share.

The suit him, appeared for functional reasons initially: it again to protect themselves from weather and external attacks but also to protect his body from the gaze of others respecting modesty attitudes and gentle seduction. Then, as and when it was expanded and decorated, and with accessories. We will start to wear jewelry, makeup and fragrance to, that's when we no longer talk only garment, which was first a functional purpose, but fashion, which for most seductive.

The rise of fashion is largely due to three main factors that constitute the contemporary consumer society;
- Mass production, which allows you to duplicate items in large quantities;
- The birth of a first form of "urban middle class" as a result of rural exodus;
- The massive distribution of press, which is a relay to first order.

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Fashion is associated is a multifactorial phenomenon. It combines the creative, media, industrial and commercial, making it a complex element of society. It can be seen as a social and cultural reflex. Indeed, with the development of means of communication and transportation, virtually all the creations in the field of clothing are available to most people, all social groups.

The mode can be viewed at an angle strictly speaking art or craft, and as a tool of economic development, for example through its textile and manufacturing sectors, often poorly raised.

Since the mid-twentieth century, fashion has gradually built a picture of inevitable social phenomenon. Fashion designers, such as Paul Poiret at the beginning of the century raised, then Madeleine Vionnet, Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin and Coco Chanel Andre Courreges, Nina Ricci and more recently, Thierry Mugler, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace, Christian Lacroix, Helmut Lang or Miuccia Prada, Tom Ford and Anthony Chaulieu have become public figures. They gradually transformed into trendsetters for the big names in international distribution. Their role has become closer to the ordinary consumer audience. The paradox remains that the class their growing reputation among celebrities, celebrities or stars magazines or industry, or even media such as television or film.

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Designing a collection

In temperate countries, fashion is renewed under a system of seasons over a period of six months: Fall / Winter and Spring / Summer. Before the collections arrive in the shops, a big team is provided. The collections are designed six to eight months in advance.

More and more companies are even up to four collections a year: Fall / Winter Holliday (Holiday Collection), cruise or early spring and finally Spring / Summer. This helps increase sales.

The first step is to look for clues to the sniff mode tomorrow. With this collection of information, a book trend is mounted, more commonly known by its English name trend book.

The hunt for ideas, there are several golf essential. First there is the fashion shows such as "First Vision" and Tex World in Paris, "Pitti Uomo" and "Pitti Immagine in Florence and Milan where he is an amazing number of salons. There are also fashion shows. But the most accessible is "window shopping" and look people in the streets. For this, the interesting details of clothing of passersby can be photographed, or even fashion buyers will buy clothes and accessories in various shops.

Then an account of the different elements found is established, and combinations of ideas are being put in place: the themes. Each theme includes different materials, different types of clothing and special details.

Thus, each page of a book of trends will be provided with a textile sample, detailed technical drawings, a fashion illustration (figure) and, possibly, photo references. They will be exhibited in the salons of fashion seasons or sold directly to brands. These books can anticipate trend fashion two to three seasons, that is to say that autumn / winter 2005, the trend books spring / summer 2006 are presented, those autumn / winter 2006/2007 are currently Finishing and research for spring / summer 2007 began.

A trend book is a collection of ideas, there is no collection is created. The designer uses to create his own collection inspired by not only elements of interest.

Example designer of trend books: Nelly Rodi, or Peclers Promostyl (Paris), A + A (Milan).

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Creation

Once the ideas and themes have been chosen, the designers will create their collections with a pre-season or two. You select the final ideas and fabrics, provide printed or embroidery, and small accessories (clips, buttons, videos, etc..). They will then build a collection that includes books like the trend in several different groups. For example, a theme of magic, a dozen pieces (clothing) will be carried out with the idea of ??witchcraft, another part of the fairies, one on wands, etc.. In a collection, depending on the size of the mark, there may be two to six groups.

Designers ensure that the collection is balanced (the various elements are coordinated and there are a few more ups than downs).

Each model is represented by a drawing showing clearly all the details, with a front and back or side when it has elements to specify.

Once this work is completed, the presentation will be made in the form of technical drawings for each accompanied by a textile sample or reference tissue chosen. Each group is shown to convey the mood.

The designer takes over the engineering drawings to make a sponsorship of the garment. At this stage occur frequent trips between the designer and stylist to the desire to adjust the constraints of reality.

Finally, the designer assembles the prototypes that allow us to see if the models have the desired record. It is even possible to improve them. Part creation is complete once the final changes are made.

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Garment marketing

Once the boss of each prototype was produced by the model, a phase of industrialization occurs. This is most often the work of the pattern maker and grader.

The pattern maker is responsible, from the boss with the main parts of the garment, creating all the technical annexes parts such as liners, some fusing, and jigs.

The grader is instructed to derive the model made in a size reference, the basic size, a model described in all sizes to produce.

Once the boss of each model was developed, the garment is produced in greater or lesser amount depending on the intended distribution. This is the "making of clothing." The garments are then packaged and shipped in different outlets.

Some models may have been created specifically for a fashion show to highlight the collection of the brand. In a collection, approximately 20% of the models will never be sold.

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Fashion and ethics

Pollution

Fashion and clothing highlight inequalities and paradoxes North / South. Most textile products are manufactured in the Third World, especially in Asia. Some materials are among the dirtiest in the world. The cultivation of cotton, for example, uses 28% of global pesticide, then it is not more than 2.5% of cultivated land. This raises serious problems, both in terms of local environmental impact at the level of health and human consequences on the populations concerned.
Child Labour

The textile industries of the Third World rely heavily on child labor [3]. According to the International Labour Office, one in six children working worldwide. Children working in textile mills are exposed to chemicals. In the carpet industry and weaving, children are crammed into dark places polluted by dust wool. They damage their eyes and lungs. Children are often dressers diseased skin.

Solutions

Fashion has a responsibility in key social and environmental issues. In Europe, designers have become aware of these issues and offer more and more designs are more respectful of the rights and the environment, for example Misericordia, Veja sneakers, Ideo ... The boycott of products made by children could be a lobbying tool to encourage countries to sign treaties against child labor in textile mills.

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A fashion show is a live performance of presenting one by one before a public static clothing or fashion accessories designer that has created and which are also available for purchase. In the world of haute couture, where it took the form of a ritual, this show is usually held during the week of parades of the city where it takes place with the help of professional models hired an agency, they swaying to music along a podium surrounded by potential clients, journalists and photographers gathered behind closed doors to opportunity. Social event, therefore, it also serves to creators to provide their personal vision of fashion for the upcoming season, and thus constitutes an almost artistic representation while providing fashion houses sponsors renew their image.

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